Download and install Python SciPy and get the most useful package for machine learning in Python. Load a dataset and understand it’s structure using statistical.Dremel Junkie: GUIDE: Step by Step 1. Mac G4 TMDS to DVI Conversion. This is a step- by- step detailing the process of converting a 1. Mac G4 to a useable LCD with a video cable that terminates with a DVI connector in the base. Get hack now. Step-by-step installation instructions: Download and Install the extension in your browser Google Chrome (use the link above) Activate the extension in. Instagram confirms hack against high-profile users' account info As always, be on the lookout for suspicious activity. I will focus only on the video connector and converting this LCD to be DVI compatible. Please note that I am not starting from a complete machine. I have several necks, empty domes/bases, and LCDs that I have obtained through various sources as individual parts. So my tutorial will not focus on the general disassembly and reassembly, but on the wiring and powering of the LCD. The Air Force is inviting vetted computer security specialists from across the U.S. and select partner nations to do their best to hack some of its key public. For those who have not followed my blog, please be aware that there are two versions of the wires in the 1. Mac G4 (Two different necks). One version is for the 8. Mac, the other is for either the 1 or 1. Mac. If you use the wrong one - the colors will not match up. While the wires connect the same things, apple changed the color of some of the wires. In addition, for the 1/1. Ghz I have included a video tutorial to give another perspective. Note: Everything here is AT YOUR OWN RISK. These mods will void your warranty and I provide absolutely no guarantee that you will have the same results as I have. This is a financial risk, the parts that go into this are used and in some cases 1. Mistakes or even bad luck may result in no image or even permanent damage to components. So know what you are getting into. I can not vouch for the long term stability of this mod. Although this mod is solder- less and simplified, obviously soldered, insulated connections are likely to be more stable. Even though I have simplified the process, this is still an advanced mod. Be cautious when handling live connections which (in the case of the inverter to backlight) can be several thousand volts. So if you're still ready, lets get started: I. PARTS LISTThese are the parts that I used or very common alternatives - MANY other variations are unquestionably possible, but I can not guarantee something I did not see work personally. In some cases I will list where I purchased it from - this is in no way an endorsement of any particular merchant or sales site - just a statement of how I acquired it. VIDEO TUTORIAL PART 1 (1/1. Ghz NECK) can be seen here: Introduction and Parts List. VIDEO TUTORIAL PART 2 (1/1. Ghz NECK) can be seen here: Parts List Continued. A) i. Mac G4 1. 7" and components. Monitor Housing - 2 pieces (front and back) contains LCD and inverter. Neck - while structurally the same the neck's of the 8. As both pinouts are available it does not matter which you choose. Dome - contains computer components (none of which are used), A white plastic overlay, a metal faraday cage (the metallic inner part of the dome), the bottom of the dome, and a circular tray for the bottom. This is the hardest to buy. You need a working LCD and Inverter for this mod. As broken computers may or may not have functioning LCDs - its a tough choice. If possible, try not to buy and tear apart working machines - there are fewer and fewer of these available. Ebay is littered with hundreds of broken machines and parts that can be recycled. If the machine you buy is "dirty" - you can buy a new plastic outer housing for the dome. If the screen or inverter doesn't work, they can also be found easily on ebay. B) A Power Source - to power both inverter and LCD screen. Any power source that has at least a DC: 1. V and a 5. V line will work, however addition of a 3. V line actually matches up closer with the panels specs. Despite this, I have not seen any problem with using only 1. V and 5. V. As this makes everything more uniform and simpler, I am focusing on using these voltages via a standard molex connector. Alternatives include any atx power supply with a molex. As there is limited space, you should choose a small power source like a pico power supply which is a DC- DC power source that uses an external power brick, but any atx power supply will work. If you use an atx power supply you will have to "jump" it to get it to turn on without a motherboard. This can be done by inserting a paper clip or wire between pins 1. Simply put - grounding pin 1. While this alone works you should think about putting some wire with an on/off switch between these. Do not use a momentary switch, you need a real on/off (such as a rocker or toggle switch). Pico Power Supplies, I'd probably recommend at least 1. Watts. Make sure you buy a DC- AC power brick as well. Another option is a DC to molex power supply this gives the necessary 1. V and 5. V line and also connects to a regular AC plug. This is what I am using for now. Whatever you choose, it must simply have a working 4 pin molex plug. My tutorial is based around using a working molex in combination with a molex splitter. Cutting off the 2 female connectors and stripping the ends will give you 2 of each of these: 1. V(Yellow), 5. V(Red), Ground(Black). Available from newegg. Another possibility is using the native i. Mac G4 power supply. As it has 3. 3. V, 5. V, 1. 2V, and Ground. As readers have noted and I myself have tested for the 2. I will post regarding the native PSU in the future. C) Accessories and Cables. Optional): Extra Small Wires and Pins. One source of extra wire is to buy LVDS cables (on ebay). However, using wires with the proper pins will work best and it is difficult to be sure what size pins are in any given wire. One source of i. Mac G4 wires is obviously an i. Mac G4. Buying an extra neck as a source wires and pins may come in useful especially if you make a mistake. These are always available on ebay and it does have to come from the same size i. Mac. I used 3 small wires with pins from a 1. Mac G4 neck. (The neck does not have to be opened, I just cut off the last few inches) for the 8. Alternatively you can use the wires in your own i. Mac's neck. This will require cutting and stripping some small wires, but does work just as well. Unless you have an extra neck or are concerned about making a mistake (once cut there is no going back), this is the method I would recommend as it saves having to purchase additional equipment. 2. Torx Screw driver kit or set, Philips screwdriver, Small Flat head screwdriver or mini screwdriver set. 3. Soldering iron and solder (not required but can be useful for making some connections more secure or for repairs). 4. A safety pin - for removing pins from connectors 5. Electrical Tape and/or heat shrink. A multimeter with continuity setting. This is useful in checking the integrity of the connection especially if you are not getting an image 7. Alligator wires (at least 7). A Cable or connector for splicing. This must be a TMDS cable such as DVI or HDMI. Alternatives include: a) Cut DVI/HDMI cable: I do not recommend doing it this way. It is easy to obtain and using a mutimeter, it is easy to find out which wires correspond to which pin. But, the wires are difficult to work with and the solder itself can cause pixelation or "sparkles". Simply put choice b below is much easier and likely to produce a better image. If yo do proceed this way, after striping you will find the TMDS control wires (Clock, Data, Hot Plug, 5. V) as well as 4 groups of wires that are further shielded. These are the TMDS signal cables. Each one of these has a positive wire, negative wire, and ground. Also, remember when using a DVI cable the connector is MALE and this does not correlate directly to the standard diagrams and pin numbers which are based on a female connector. A DVI connector (with small pins) - Although I'm sure similar ones exist. The one I used is a right angle, female, digital only (no analog pins) dvi connector and the part number is: MOLEX PN 7. I bought a bunch of these on ebay. Other sources which I have personal experience with include Mouser. Digi- Key which sells individual one for under $4. A search on google shopping or octopart shows Allied Electronics, Hawk Electronics, Heiland Electronics, RS Elecrtonics, Newark. Onlineparts. com all stock this connector and sell it for $2 - $5 for one connector and less per unit if you buy multiples. Octopart search. Google Shopping search. Item on: Mouser. Digikey. Newark. Online. Components. Allied Electronics. RS Electronics. The advantages of this are many. The pins can be pushed in, but if a mistake is made they can easily be removed. No soldering of tiny wires is required and the connection quality will likely be better.
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